Letter from Mongolia 16: Tsagaan Sar: a seasonal threshold

Drawing on Zava Damdin Rinpoche’s (b.1976) doha “Монгол Цагаан Сар” (Mongolian Tsagaan Sar) this article draws on the poem’s imagery as a starting point to explore Tsagaan Sar through the lens of ethnography, human geography and urban studies. The notes focus on how practices of visiting, greeting, hosting, and renewal continue to organise relationships and everyday belonging, including how they are adapted to the pace and constraints of urban life in Ulaanbaatar.

MONGOLIAN TSAGAAN SAR

(Eng. trans.)

When the eastern clouds billow and gather, ushering in the first sign of Spring

When the khadag of the inner heart is unfurled and the breath of celebration rises

When, before she comes into bloom, the cherished yarghui maiden sends a letter

Not from below, but like a mountain, upon the high steppe, Mongolian Tsagaan Sar arrives

* * *

When the hearts and minds of the people surge and flow with life-spirit

When, from the dream of the deceitful world, one draws breath and awakens into restrained custom

Like the gazelles of the open steppe and the birds, soaring and rejoicing

As if a rainbow were drawn linking neighbouring households, Mongolian Tsagaan Sar visits

* * *

When salaries and silver, saddles, bridles and gear, and fine swift steeds stand at the tethering line

When white-haired elders and seniors, younger and older, and parents are greeted with raised elbows

When clear-faced young women, bearing tea and festive foods, show the highest respect

Softening and setting right the order of time, Mongolian Tsagaan Sar bestows its blessing

* * *

When teachers and sages, the root of all learning, abide upon a jewelled throne

When beings of complete, unbroken interconnection bow in greeting, touching with the crown of the head

When noble, fully-accomplished persons open rare and precious scriptures of past and present

Dazzling the eyes of other continents of the wheel of existence, Mongolian Tsagaan Sar shines

* * *

When the “golden state”—having no body to be grasped—yet is grasped at, by frail beings who try to secure it

When brave heroes and heroines, able to offer their living hearts, press upward and rise, standing straight

When the history of a great empire is recited, the horse-head lute is played, and epic tales are chanted

Echoing on for ten thousand years, in the breast of Asia’s white dakini, Mongolian Tsagaan Sar gleams

* * *

When the snow on the slopes of the Bogd Altaiits “five hundred”—melts away and turns to crystal, becoming a heart-mirror

When the emblematic golden eagle of the high crag descends like a river of ice and greets the White Chinua

When vessel and essence are filled with luxurious form, sound, scent, taste, and tactile objects

Made for delighted seeing, attentive hearing, smelling, tasting, and feeling, Mongolian Tsagaan Sar draws near

* * *

When the White Heaven that guards the lineage of the Bogd Khan goes down to greet those below

When the master of perfectly bounded Tsogt Mountain strokes his long beard and sits, foretelling the future

When the bright radiance of the great decree proclaimed by the supreme Bogd Chinggis of the Borjigin lineage shines forth

Among the uniquely formed beings of vertical script, Mongolian Tsagaan Sar rises

* * *

When beautiful Lady Sun of the vast sky rises, illuminating with innumerable rays

When herders, complete in method and wisdom, honour the fortune and merit of the five kinds of livestock

When the golden intersection of the great wheel of the vast cosmos turns the auspicious khas

By the blessing of the blazing White Heaven, Mongolian Tsagaan Sar welcomes the future

* * *

When many keen-minded children dress in auspicious new deels and finery

When every bright being overflows with inspiration and offers blessings amid feasting and wedding celebrations

With its radiant, soothing shine, it spreads great peace among all peoples at all times

Indeed, on the bosom of the golden earth there is a splendid ornament called Mongolian Tsagaan Sar.

Zava Damdin Rinpoche

Land of Soyombot, Delgertsogt Mountain

27.02.2025

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The above is an interpretation of the original Mongolian text into English for readers unfamiliar with Mongolian Cyrillic. This version has not been cut-and-pasted from elsewhere, so if there are mistakes they are all of my own making, and for these I humbly apologise to my Mongolian and other readers. I’m approaching each translation with care and learning slowly as I go…

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Notes

1. Seasonal threshold and “Spring coming in”

The opening movement — “хаврын урь орохуй дор” (“when the token/foretaste of spring enters”) — frames Tsagaan Sar as a socially recognised threshold rather than simply a date: people behave as if the year “turns” when light, weather, and daily rhythms start to shift. In Mongolian cultural life, this seasonal cue often carries practical, secular meanings: resetting household plans, budgeting, scheduling visits, and “clearing the air” in relationships so the warm season starts without leftover friction. Contemporary ethnography of urban households notes how holiday preparation (shopping, cooking, cleaning, organising visits) becomes a form of collective coordination that makes the new year feel materially real, even for city dwellers whose livelihoods are not tied to herding calendars — “Монгол Цагаан Сар морилмуй” (“Mongolian Tsagaan Sar arrives”) (Fox, 2019, p. 15). This fits a broader pattern described for Mongolia’s post-socialist everyday life: people use calendar moments to manage uncertainty and to re-anchor social obligations in predictable routines (Stolpe & Erdene-Ochir, 2022, p. 99).

2. Greeting as social order and everyday hierarchy

The stanza on greeting elders — “эцэг эхийн тохой өргөн золгомуй” (“greeting parents with raised elbows”) — points to zolgolt as a secular technology of respect: it makes kinship seniority and relational distance visible, but also workable, in a busy modern life. In Mongolian greeting etiquette (золгох), “raised elbows” refers to the respectful posture where the younger person supports the elder’s forearms at the elbows while exchanging greetings, signalling deference, care, and the orderly acknowledgement of seniority. Also, from a Mongolian cultural perspective, “Царай тунгалаг гоо охид” (“clear-faced fair maidens/beautiful young women”) evokes an ideal of youthful grace and social poise associated with presenting tea and festive foods to guests, highlighting hospitality, family honour, and good upbringing. Not to be confused with a feminist reading, this phrasing is less about prescribing women’s value or roles, and more a conventional poetic register for celebrating the aesthetic and interpersonal qualities that make respectful hosting feel complete.

From a cultural perspective, the emphasis is less “ritual” in a narrow sense and more a public choreography that confirms who owes care to whom, who can advise whom, and who is responsible for maintaining family cohesion across households. In accounts of Tsagaan Sar visits, the greeting sequence helps people move through many homes without awkward negotiation: it standardises politeness while leaving room for affection, humour, and reconciliation — “Ард олны зүрх сэтгэл … долгисон урсахуй дор” (“when the hearts and minds of the people surge and flow…”) (Fox, 2019, p. 15). Work by western scholars on Mongolian social relations more generally highlights how small acts of deference and receiving (who stands, who sits, who speaks first) quietly organise everyday authority and trust (Empson, 2018, pp. 6–7).

3. Hospitality as abundance-work: dairy, tea, and the ethics of hosting

The lines “цай идээ барин хүндлэлийн дээдийг үзүүлэхүй” (“offering tea and foods, showing the highest respect”) and the recurring arrival motif (“Монгол Цагаан Сар зочилмуй” — “Mongolian Tsagaan Sar visits/comes as a guest”) foreground hosting as a core secular value: showing care through food, warmth, and attentiveness. In Mongolian cultural practice, Tsagaan Sar hospitality is not only about eating; it is about demonstrating a household’s capacity to share — time, labour, ingredients, and emotional presence. English-language scholarship on Mongolian dairy and household provisioning stresses that “white foods” (dairy) operate as a visible register of well-being and competence in domestic work, especially when offered to guests and displayed as part of holiday abundance (Ahearn, 2021, ch. 14). The doha’s sensory list — “дүрс, дуу, үнэр, амт” (“form, sound, scent, taste”) — reads like an inventory of how hospitality is experienced: a carefully staged environment where comfort itself becomes the message of respect and social inclusion.

4. Dress and objects as portable dignity (deel, gifts, and “newness”)

The poem’s attention to attire and gear — “шинэ дээл сэлтээр гоёл асаахуй дор” (“when [they] kindle adornment with auspicious new deels and accompanying finery”) and “эмээл хазаар” (“saddle and bridle”) — can be read culturally as the secular aesthetics of “renewal.” Wearing a new or refreshed deel is not mere display; it signals preparedness, self-respect, and willingness to meet others properly. Scholarship on Mongolian clothing and social change notes that festival garments operate as “public-facing” identity work: they let people show continuity with family taste and locality while also expressing modern aspirations (Yembuu, 2016). In Tsagaan Sar contexts, objects (small gifts, snuff bottles, scarves, sweets) circulate as condensed statements of regard and social memory — not because of mystical meaning, but because they materialise relationships in a way that words alone cannot, especially when many visits happen quickly (“захидал илгээхүй дор” (“when [one] sends a letter”) as an image of keeping ties active at a distance).

5. Neighbourhood connection and the ethics of visiting

The striking metaphor “Айл саахалтын хооронд солонго татаж холбох мэт” (“as if drawing a rainbow to connect between neighboring households”) captures Tsagaan Sar as a social-infrastructure project: the holiday makes links across apartments, ger districts, and extended kin networks through repeated visiting. From a Mongolian cultural perspective, this is a secular form of community maintenance: people reaffirm who is “near” in the social sense (available, dependable, reciprocal) even if they are geographically scattered. Ethnographic description of Tsagaan Sar in Ulaanbaatar shows how visiting is both joyful and demanding—requiring planning, transport, and etiquette—yet it is widely defended as necessary precisely because it prevents relationships from thinning into mere contacts (Fox, 2019, p. 15). Related work on Mongolian sociality argues that visiting practices keep obligations alive in an economy where mobility and precarious work can otherwise fragment households (Plueckhahn, 2020).

6. Herding wealth as shared security (not symbolism)

The line “таван хошуу малын хишиг” (“the blessing/fortune of the five kinds of livestock”) is often read culturally in practical terms: livestock and their products represent a baseline of security, food, and status that can be converted into help for others.

Even when families are urban, the idea of herding wealth remains a secular grammar for talking about stability—who can host well, who can gift well, who can support relatives in hard times. Research on pastoral livelihoods and vulnerability in Mongolia emphasises how households rely on inter-household transfers and informal support to manage shocks, and how seasonal and festive expenses can be significant markers of inequality and resilience (Mearns, 2004).

In the doha, the holiday’s “arrival” on the “high steppe” — “өндөр талын дээр Монгол Цагаан Сар морилмуй”(“upon the lofty steppe, Mongolian Tsagaan Sar arrives”) — reads as a reminder that social wellbeing is still imaginatively anchored in pastoral competence, even when expressed through city-based hosting and travel.

“Алтан төр” (“golden state”) is a Mongolian poetic honorific for rightful governance and civic order—an ideal of statehood treated as precious and enduring, even though it is ultimately abstract and maintained only through people’s collective loyalty and practice.

“Ээрэм орчлын бусад тивийн мэлмийг гялбуулан” (“dazzling the eyes of other continents of the wheel of existence”) is a poetic way of saying that Mongolian Tsagaan Sar shines so brilliantly in its cultural refinement and festive splendour that it draws admiration far beyond Mongolia, as if its radiance is visible across the whole world.

7. City-life Tensions

In Ulaanbaatar, the most palpable tension around Цагаан сар is not whether people value it, but how they fit its dense obligations—visiting elders, circulating gifts and food, performing respect—into apartment living, long commutes, and time-poor wage work; ethnographies of ger-district and city households show that many families continue to do Tsagaan Sar in the city, but by compressing, rerouting, and partially digitising the work of visiting and care. Elizabeth Fox notes returning specifically “for the celebration of the Lunar New Year (tsagaan sar)” and describes how, outside face-to-face time, families “remain in touch” through video calls and online messaging—an everyday infrastructure that helps sustain kin obligations when movement and work schedules make constant visiting hard (Fox, 2019, p. 15).

Research on Ulaanbaatar’s urban economies likewise shows how holiday obligations are negotiated through money, credit, and reciprocal “social indebtedness,” so that Tsagaan Sar gifting and hosting can be maintained even when households are cash-constrained or spatially dispersed—often via small but repeated transfers, carefully chosen items, and strategic visit-sequencing across apartments and ger areas (Plueckhahn & Bayartsetseg, 2018).

In this sense, the practice persists less as a “rural survival” carried unchanged into the city and more as an adaptable social technology: visits may be shorter, clustered by neighbourhood, or rotated across years; some greetings and blessings travel ahead by phone; and the material side of respect is increasingly managed through urban financial tools (loans, repayments timed to holidays, and gift-buying under budget pressure), while still aiming to uphold the core relational aim of Tsagaan Sar—keeping kin and neighbourly ties warm and publicly acknowledged within an urban tempo (Fox, 2019, p. 15; Plueckhahn & Bayartsetseg, 2018; Plueckhahn, 2020).

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A Personal Note

Since 2005, I have observed—and continue to take part in—Tsagaan Sar in ways that deepen my appreciation of the perspectives outlined in these notes: that care is made tangible through visiting, greeting and the steady upkeep of relationships.

Like many culturally-anchored communities around the world, we keep grounding and embedding practices considered worthy, even as city pace, economic pressure, and other influences pull attention elsewhere.

Similarly, like other communities of practice, we increasingly use a range of communication and information technologies to sustain community cohesion and to express respect and connection from afar when we cannot be physically present, and CPinMongolia.com plays a role in this regard. In doing so, we quietly choose what we want to carry forward, and what we are willing to let fall away…

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Further Reading

Ahearn, A. (2021). Milk and human–livestock relations in contemporary Mongolia. In Socialist and Post–Socialist Mongolia: Nation, Identity, and Culture (ch. 14). Routledge.

Dal Zovo, C. (2016). Archaeology of a sacred mountain: Mounds, water, mobility, and cosmologies of Ikh Bogd Uul, Eastern Altai Mountains, Mongolia. CSIC.

Empson, R. (2018). [Ethnos article preprint PDF]. UCL Discovery (open access).

Fox, E. (2019). Between Iron and Coal: Enacting Kinship, Bureaucracy and Infrastructure in the Ger Districts of Ulaanbaatar (PhD thesis). University College London.

Mearns, R. (2004). Sustaining livelihoods on Mongolia’s pastoral commons: Insights from a participatory poverty assessment. Development and Change, 35(1), 107–139.

Plueckhahn, R. (2020). Shaping Urban Futures in Mongolia: Ulaanbaatar, Dynamic Ownership and Economic Flux.Amsterdam University Press.

Plueckhahn, R., & Bayartsetseg, T. (2018). Negotiation, social indebtedness, and the making of urban economies in Ulaanbaatar. Central Asian Survey.

Stolpe, I., & Erdene-Ochir, A. (2022). Nutag councils as post-socialist lifelines between the steppe and the metropoles in Mongolia. In Mongolia’s Infrastructure: A Labor Perspective.

Yembuu, B. (2016). Mongolian nomads: Effects of globalization and social change. In Asian Futures: Trans-disciplinary Approaches.

Please refer to the INDEX for other articles that may be of interest.

End of transcript.

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